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Amasra - Safranbolu

Trip Details

Road Trip 2008 I
Date: Mon, 25/08/2008
Distance: 97 km
Motorcyclists: Manolis, Ploumisti
Photographers: Manolis, Ploumisti
Authors: Manolis
Translators: Sakis
Map: Trip map

Sightseeing map

Our scene, once more, was set up in inadequate point (no that we had other choice…) so that strikes to us the sun from the first moment of its east! The heat compelled us to rise at 8.15am. We went for breakfast to the canteen of the man that volunteered and left us to set up our tent in the beach. Uselessly, we waited for breakfast while it was never prepared! Even when Ploumisti returned - afterwards from 1 hour, from the bank, even when I asked again, the likeable tradesman for breakfast we did not accomplish anything. In all probability, he did not understand English and from reasons of politeness, he answered us affirmatively smiling…

We decided therefore to seek elsewhere our chance… We directed in the commercial centre of the city. It was beautiful and arranged. Tall trees offered their shade in the central square that entertained crowd of restaurants but also the statue of local young musician that died in 2007. Rather it constituted idol for the residents of the city, while he had been dedicated in the campaign against the car accidents. The square allocated an astonishing view of the sea and of the castle. We sat in one of the cafeterias and enjoyed our breakfast.
We returned in the motorcycles, we gathered our things and moved to the castle. We dedicated little time for certain photographs and a small roaming, before our departure.

In general terms, Amasra was a likeable tourist town. Perhaps the most remarkable resort, afterwards Sinop, in the western region of beaches of the Black Sea. It was small and very graphic. It allocated crowd of cheap lodgings – not at the Weekends - and restaurants in the central square but also in the region of the castle. It constitutes a pleasant destination for those who visit northern Turkish beach of the Pontic Sea.

Continuing our course to the west, we decided to visit Safranbolu (97km.). The way that we made was astonishing! Certainly more comfortable - from that of the previous day - with wider street and good situation of the paving. The huge planes - in a lot of points of the street - were raised at the length of the way creating “natural tunnels” making the way idyllic!!! I wished it does not finish… When we climbed in 1000m., meeting immense beautiful pines. We entered in Safranbolu (Saframpoli) and followed the plates for the “Historical Centre ” of the city.

When someone reaches in the historical centre perceives the diversity. It is really graphic, keeping a traditional architecture in its buildings, which do not resemble with those of rests of Turkish cities. It stands proud for its beautiful and so much irreproachable maintained old Ottoman houses. Immediately, we perceived the glory and the acne that knew the region in the past. Mainly when it constituted important turning-point in the commercial street from the Black Sea in the hinterland of Turkey. As it is reported in the years of its acne, 25% of the population were Greeks.

Following the downhill way, the first buildings that we met were a Pane and the Turkish sweating baths of the city. Continuing, we reached near the “heart ” of the old city. Everywhere we saw well maintained traditional houses that most had been changed in inns and hostel. We sat in a small tavern for coffee. Ploymisti seized the occasion to try a local sweet.

Some time later, we directed in Tourist Information in order to take certain information. We found the lodging Arasna Otel (50YTL/double room & breakfast), an old mansion that had been changed in hotel. Its price was good. We arranged our things and we began a walk in paved with slabs back street that entertained crowd of small shops.

First from all, we visited Pasa Camii (Pane), that found under one huge age-long plane tree. We entered in the interior with the intention to explore it. One old man admonished us - rather he lambasted us - obviously bothered from the presence of Ploymisti. We left them “to pray” and we visited the Old Market that was found precisely beside.
Yemeniciller Arastasi is dated by the 17th century. Its central paved with slabs back street is protected from the shade that is offered from the pergola. Its bunches were still unripe. The hour we went, most shops were closed. The shopkeepers were polite and no pressing.

The completely face-lift kervansaray (=inn for travellers) was the next sight. In our days it functions as hotel of luxury with the name Cinci Han. It is dated by the 18-19th century. It was really very impressive, keeping its traditional character.

Continuity of our walk, we went up in the hill where is found the castle. There is entertained the Museum and the clock of the city. The part offered a unique view of the city but also wider region. We went down hill to Kaymakamlar Geri Evi. It was a traditional house that has been changed in a small folklore museum (price of ticket: 2,5YTL/per person) - as many in the city. In the 1st floor the rooms had been shaped in such a way that it represents respectively the past. The furniture, the domestic and cooking utensils, the carpets, the clothing gave you elements from the everyday routine, the functionalism of space but also the rules of behaviour of classic Ottoman family. The two-storied house allocated garden where you can enjoy your tea.

Following the uphill path, we reached in the second taller point of the city. The view was incredible, but the better hour in order to enjoy, it was in the sunset. We moved to Kileciler Gezi Evi and we walked in the back street that led to Izzet Mehmet Pasa Camii. The back street was acquaintance from the confectioneries that made local delicacies from saffron. We tried and were very tastily, confirming its fame! Also there are found small shops that make traditionally “manti”, pastas that look like with Italian rabiolia.

Before we return in the region of the hotel for food, we passed from Demircilet Carsisi, the small river of the city. Unfortunately in our days, it has ended up sewer… Nevertheless, it was impressive how it was built and “stand” the shops above the river… It was almost in “air”!

For food we selected a restaurant near to the hotel. We tried manti, but it did not impress us so much. Rather was to blame, the way of cooking. Later Ploymisti honoured locally sweating bath. She had also tried it in Morocco and considered it of course more careful and more qualitatively. Moreover hamam constituting Turkish creation. When she returned, she was of course renewed… what she needed after 10.000km. of travelling!!!

At night we sat under the pergola of the hotel. Naturally the epicentre of our discussions with the local, it were the motorcycles. The bantlings played in the next stone square. The people were having their walk. With the lighting it creates a romantic atmosphere, all scenic thing look like a dream.
Safranbolu gained the impressions. It is a very graphic small city that offers unique moments of relaxation. It does not constitute known tourist resort. I happened to select it as destination, because the origin of my pre-grandfathers. Afterwards my visit, I realized how the Greeks felt when they were forced to abandon it. They were victims in a political game…